Dropping The Subframe – 2000 Volvo V70 R
MVS Forums’ very own contributor scot850 (Neil) details his battle dropping the subframe on his 2000 Volvo V70 R. After over 2 hours, all I managed to achieve was to remove the VC unit. With the benefit of hindsight and not taking the Volvo instructions too literally, I suggest the following is the way to […]
Ever wonder about the AWD peculiarities of the Volvo 1990s 850/S70/V70/XC70 cars? Which P80 models were built with all-wheel drive? MVS Volvo forums member Jazzop asks “Lately I’ve been curious about the AWD versions of the 855 & V70, but I haven’t found much in the way of FAQs/wikis explaining the model differences. Perhaps someone […]
Are you hearing a click sound from your front wheels? That's the CV joints dying. They exist on front-wheel drive and AWD vehicles so that you can turn your front wheels. It's a way -- "articulation" -- to get power from the engine to the wheels. You can either replace the axles ("half-shafts"), or if it's not too late, you can re-grease and re-boot your existing axles.
AWD to FWD Conversion on a 2005 XC70
AWD Broke – Can He Convert it to Front Drive Only? MVS Forums Contributor renns asks about AWD to FWD Conversion on a 2005 XC70, much like 1997-2000 Volvo owners do all the time, like here, and here, and here. OK, I picked up the XC70, 90,000 miles, in very nice shape overall. I had […]
Stage 0 and So Much More… Fix List for a V70
MVS Contributor Sledddriver goes on an multi-month blistering repair & fix odyssey, taking his 1998 V70 T5 from the edge of roadworthiness to 100% functional and reliable… all for not even $1000. This is Stage 0 and way, way more. Following up on Tryingbe’s theme [of restoring to 100% a P80 Volvo], here’s a list of sled-work […]
A surprisingly large part of keeping 850/S70/V70/XC70 and C70 models on the road is… axles. Yes, axles. They’re good for generally (just an educated guess) 120k miles, coming out of the factory. After that, it’s entirely dependent on what kind of rebuilder they went to. Fortunately, replacing axles is pretty simple to do. The biggest pitfall/trap in […]
More Manual Transmission Swap Tips & Tricks
MVS Contributor tryingbe goes ALL OUT doing an auto to manual transmission swap. He has outstanding information and warnings on what to buy, where to get it, and the transmission swap to do list. This Volvo forum topic joins the many others here on manual swaps. The topic was started by beigg who asked… What is […]
997-2002-Volvo-bevel-gear.jpgnah/
Here’s a downloadable PDF from V70XC.com on how to change bevel (angle) gear fluid on 1997-2002 model Volvo AWD cars. For 2003+, you have a Haldex system, and it’s got an additional fluid to maintain.
Unfortunately, no drain plug is provided! After a conversation with a Volvo service manager, who told me that they always install a drain plug in the housing (by drilling and tapping the aluminum case) at the 60K service (and change oil every 60K thereafter), I decided that it must be done on my car but without the drilling and tapping for a drain plug. What follows is the method I used.
For those concerned about the health of their notorious mechanical Volvo AWD system used on 1997-2002 Volvos, longtime technician Dave at Volvo Specialists told me they’re actually very robust AWD systems, you just have to ALWAYS maintain the same size tires on all four corners. He has 160k miles on his 1999 V70 AWD and he’s never had one problem with the bevel gear.
He mentioned a customer who drove 300 miles on new tires — one a smaller, accidentally-installed tire — and at the end of the 300 miles the bevel gear was torn to pieces and smoking hot. The tire shop put on three 60-series tires and one 55-series (or vice-versa, I forget). The shop ended up paying for the bevel gear repair.
The post Bevel Gear Maintenance on 1997-2002 Volvo AWD Cars appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
Have you recently increased the boost on your volvo? Wondering where the boost cutoff switch is located? Have a look in the forum to find some clarification and remember, If you continue to run your engine with higher than designed turbo boost, be prepared to replace either the engine, transmission, other parts of the drive train or all of the above within a couple years…
MVS Forum Member Fordiesel69 asks:
On my 83 240turbo, I hooked up my home made boost controller and when the guage gets into the orange the car cuts off, how do I disable this?
MVS Forum Member Volvord replied:
Boost pressure controls a wastegate located on the underside of the turbo, when pressure reaches a set point the wastegate will open allowing the exhaust to bypass the turbine which limits boost. The rod that connects the pressure diaphram to the wastegate can be adjusted to change maximum boost. Don’t increase boost too much or engine failure will result
MVS Forum Member Fordiesel69 adds:
What I am talking about is that I have increased the boost so it is far more than factory, but now the engine shuts down and the turbo light comes on. My dealer said there is a sensor that if boost is excessive it will cut off the fuel or spark.
Where is the high boost cutoff switch?
The post High boost cutoff switch appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
Your car’s Driveshaft goes through the hole in the car’s driveshaft bearing, which causes the driveshaft to turn. Your Driveshaft is a long tube underneath the vehicle that transmits power to all the wheels. Over time, even the best cars have to have servicing or replacement of broken systems. Make sure to take the time to find the best quality car parts and get outstanding service and a competitive prices. Sometimes the trickiest aspect about repairing a vehicle is seeking out a dependable source for reliable parts.
MVS Forum Member COXC asks:
–2001 Volvo XC 86K Miles —
I am currently experiencing a “whobble” being transferred throught the brake pedal when I put my foot on the gas at around 2K RPM. The Volvo shop said I have to replace the front driveshaft. $1K+ job due to the fact that the whole driveshaft have to be replaced. I think it might just be one of the carrier bearings and can get it replaced by a axle shop for sub $100 (according to other websites).Have anyone removed one of the front driveshafts? Any special tools? Should I leave it to a shop?
Thanks
COXC
MVS Forum Member heelstriker replied:
Wow, that’s a lot of money. I’ve been trying to research this topic as well because mine is due to be replaced. It was looking like it was easier to replace the axle than the boot, so I was goign to go that route for my problem. www.raxles.com has top quality replacement axles, or local places have cheap ones for under $200. Some people have mentioned alldata.com as a source for intallation instructions, but I haven’t tried it myself yet.
MVS Forum Member E170_Driver says:
I found this series of images and a great write up. I have noticed a circular spray (just like shown in image #4) around the unit right next to the carrier bearing. It seems to be regular motor oil, but not quite sure. Any ideas on what it might be or where it is coming from??? I will be more than happy to provide a picture.
Thanks
Jan
Front Driveshaft Remove + Replace
The post Volvo Front Driveshaft Remove + Replace appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
Is it the ABS module or the wheel sensor? Hopefully this will clear things up a bit for you.
Speed sensor A – (error code P0500) Help!!!
The post Speed Sensor A: Error Code P0500 appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
Driving in our recent snow storms, with four new studded tires on: my XC-70 was noticeably lacking in traction. Sitting on a slippery slope with an observer watching, it is obvious that the rear wheels are NOT engaging, and that the front wheels spin wildly. Any body else experience this ? What is the fix?
Thanks…Dave
XC-70 2005 rear wheel drive not engaging
The post XC70 2005 Rear Wheel Drive Not Engaging appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
From reading this and other forums, lots of people are running former AWD cars w/o the driveshaft. The actual driveshaft unbolts from the angle gear and the viscous coupling at two flexible couplings. Here is a picture of mine at the rear. The front coupling is identical.
1. Remove two bolts from center exhaust hanger that hold the center bearing support in place. You may have to loosen (or remove) the support itself from the body, four bolts.
2. Remove six 6mm allen-head cap screws from the front and rear “flanges” of the drive shaft.
3. Sharp raps on the rear flange (the rusty part in the image previous to this post) until the rear of the shaft falls free.
4. Remove shaft to the rear of the vehicle.
The post Pre-2001 Volvo XC70 AWD Drive Shaft Removal appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
The LH side has a cir clip, but it’s nothing you have to compress or remove. It works the same as all the other cars you’ve worked on. You need to apply enough pressure with a pry bar to overcome the clip holding the axle. The RH side has no clip. Once the intermediate bearing cap is removed the axle will slide right out.
The passenger side seems to slide out for most people with just a tug. The driver’s side tends to take the 2 prongs opposite each other to get the axle past the circlip. I guess I would be concerned as to where to hit with the hammer- you don’t want to bugger up any of the attachment sections. Best to try to “pry” out of the transmission when possible rather than banging…
The post 99 s70 cv boot replacement appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
The rub is that the US versions of the ECU expect to have a dialogue with the TCU and when the communications stop (as in the automatic transmission and/or the TCU are gone) it freaks out and throws a CEL.
I do believe there are ECU tuners that have dealt with it but I don’t know which ones, the last I heard was that IPD had not but perhaps that Rica had, that would make sense since Rica is based in Europe.
The post Standard (manual) Transmission Swap appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
I was just about to reply that the center carrier mount was definitly causing your problem when you posted that you removed your driveshaft and found it out for yourself. I just went through this with my 98 V70XC AWD too. I didn’t settle for leaving it out and wasn’t going to pay 1,100-1,400 at the Volvo dealer for a new one. The dealer will tell you that it cannot be fixed but I’m sure you know from reading here it can be.
I got a rebuilt one from Colorado Driveshaft www.coloradodriveshaft.com They are really great and make it pretty easy getting a replacement. They pay all the shipping both ways, and in the end you are only out $475 or so. Call them in the morning.
AWD issues – Diagonosing bad propshaft in xc70
The post AWD issues – Diagonosing bad propshaft in XC70 appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
I have taken the Volvo and have installed cables without issue many time. I just use the SCC snow cables for $23 at Amazon or $50 something every where else and they work fine if installed right, but that goes for any chain. If you are willing to pay the chain guys $20 who cares how difficult it is. I’m not, so I generally don’t take the Volvo.
Snow Cables–Will the Fit In My XC’s Wheel Wells?
The post Snow Cables — Too cramped Wheel Wells? appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
I own a 2005 XC90 and it has 54,000 miles on it. We bought it brand new, recently we started hearing a strange sound from the rear of the vehicle and it was diagnosed as the a problem with the rear differential. The dealer quoted $5200 US for repairs and when we asked the dealer why would this happen on car with just 54K miles, the service manager said he would talk to Volvo and they came back and said Volvo will pay for the parts and we have to pay for labor. We took the offer and ended up applying $1300 US. Since then I have been looking up the Internet about this issue and I have seen lots of posts that say this is a consistent problem with all XC90s. Is this the case? Should I get rid of this car?
The post Volvo XC90 Rear Differential appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
1. Prop up the car with 2 jack stands on each side 2. Remove the wheel and the bolt that hold the axle in from the outside of the wheel (on the cv side). 3. Loosen up the clip that hold the brake line (will give the wheel more play) 4. Loosen the two control arms? where they connect to the brake caliper assembly. 
Front Driveshaft Removal V70 XC
The post Front Driveshaft Removal V70 XC appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
I do not have an impact wrench so I used a breaker bar with my floor jack handle as an extension to loosen the central 36mm nut on the drive axle, this WITH THE CAR ON ALL FOUR WHEELS!!!
As you can see in the provided link take the control arm off the frame, this will allow you not to have to fool with the ball joints. Don’t start this until you have loosened the drive axle.
The Gear puller will allow you to put tension on the axle, don’t try to force it loose with just tightening the gear puller, use a hammer to hit the puller, and therefor the axle, to force it loose. It will require you to re-tighten the gear puller several times but this will work the axle loose. After it is loose take off the control arm from the frame so you can take out the axle.
Click here to see the whole drive axle removal tutorial
The post V70 GLT 1998 drive axle removal appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.