Astoundingly well-documented, excellent write up on engine removal. One-hundred and sixty photographs detail this procedure, with captions for nearly every one. You can use this for almost any inline 5-cylinder Volvo.
1995 Volvo 850 Auto Engine and transmission Removal
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An excellent DIY for saving yourself a bit of money by replacing only the CV boots on your axles rather than an entirely new axle.
DIY: 1998 V70 Axle CV Rubber Boots Tips/Tricks
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…and wow do they know their stuff. Volvo Specialists are a very talented crew with a substantial amount of experience gained by working for local dealer service departments (McDonald Volvo, Rickenbaugh Volvo). I met owner Mike, manager Brett, and about five techs*, and toured the larger-than-I-thought service area.
I spent an hour talking to friendly, enthusiastic service manager Brett about his shop, his car, and Volvos in general. He’s got a fantastic 2006 S60 R with an ingenious, custom fabricated glass window on its air filter housing so he can easily see the condition of his performance cone filter.
These Volvo Specialists techs are genuinely heavily invested in Volvo cars… they all drive them, and I could sense a healthy workplace rivalry involving who has the fastest/cleanest Volvo. 
It would be strange if there wasn’t that rivalry. You know… guys + cars…
See my Stage 0 checklist of this V70 R
*One tech I’d accosted at a Wendy’s restaurant about a year ago because of his stunning 850 Platinum. It was so nice — I saw it in the parking lot before I went in — I kinda cleared my throat and approached a couple people in the restaurant and asked them if the Volvo in the parking lot was theirs. Granted, not a smooth way to meet people (I’m sure I sent his heart into his throat, that he thought somebody smashed into it, and was trying to find the owner), but when praise cannot be held back for an outstanding Volvo, I had to find the right person.
Comments taken here in the Volvo Forum
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This is something most people can do… the hardest part is getting the old fluid out (no drain plug). Angle gear fluid change tutorial coming soon.
How to change angle gear and Haldex fluid on AWD P2 Volvos
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Before proceeding with this tutorial, ensure that your Volvo AWD system is the same one as is on my 2004 V70 R. If it is, you’ll have no problem. If not, make sure you have the right bevel gear fluid (oil) for the job.
How to change rear bevel fluid on AWD P2 Volvos
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Here is a a guide for anyone who wants/needs to replace their axles on a 2000 V70XC. Through a dealership or other shop, this job costs a lot of money. I recently did it and found it was MUCH easier than I ever thought it would be. Here is my way of doing it in a rough step-by-step for about $300
Read the entire Axle Replacement Tutorial in the Volvo Forum.
How to Replace Front CV Axles – 2000 V70XC
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Get a 10 or 25 pound weight off of your barbell (weight set) or borrow a neighbors. Put it on the end of the axle ( should be loose fit) then put the nut back on.
The weight is now trapped by the bolt. Push the weigh in a few inches and pull out hard. The inertia of the weight will pull the axle free.
We have used everything from a tire rim to a brake drum to do this. You just need a few washers and something heavy with a hole in it.
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[ Editor’s note: this fine tutorial by Volvo Forum member and contributor CN90 was performed on a 1998 Volvo V70. The procedure is applicable to the entire family of 1990s Volvo 850/S70/V70/XC70/C70 models out there. The concepts it covers are applicable to almost any front wheel drive car. ]
1. Go to Home Depot or any hardware store and buy a 4-foot section of 1-inch galvanized piping (for natural gas): $13.00. You need this to remove and install the 36-mm axle nut.
2. The 36-mm Nut that holds the Axle: A 1/2-inch breaker bar is good enough (no need for 3/4-inch breaker bar), but when using the galvanized pipe, insert the 1-inch galvanized pipe all the way down the shaft of the breaker bar so it does not bend the breaker bar.
3. It is better to remove the Brake Caliper and tie it to the Spring as in the write-up, as this allows more movement of the Hub. However, if you decide NOT to remove the Brake Caliper then: For L side Axle, turn the steering to the R side and vice versa. This is because the Brake Caliper sits in the front of the rotor. By turning the wheel to the opposite side, it releases the strain on the brake rubber hose.
4. Remove ABS Sensor on top of the Hub: 10-mm socket.
(There’s more! Click the link below for the 6 other steps.)
CV Boot Repair/Replace Tips/Tricks
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This is an interesting topic about XC70 years because it’s from 2006. What was the conventional wisdom regarding buying a used XC70 four years ago? Has thinking changed vs. today? I don’t think so.
Let me add that you should run from the ’01 like it were a pygmy chasing you with a flaming elephant dung tipped spear…..& rethink dumping current car – I wish I had.
You might also be interested in ’99 XC70 – Buy or Run? and Pre-2003 Model Year AWD Volvo Checklist.
The post 2001+ XC70 Owners Chime in on Ownership appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
How is my 2004 V70 R in snow? Pretty damn good. With the new Continental ExtremeContact tires I have on her, she’s unstoppable. These Continentals’ tread bites into the hardpack snow pretty well, while the tires’ compound seems to be just soft enough to “grip” snow… and the Haldex AWD system seems to be putting the power down at the right wheel at the right time. It’s remarkable. Much better than my wife’s prior car, a 2004 Ford Escape 4WD (a small SUV). Plus the V70 R provides much more feedback about the road surface and available grip.
Acceleration and cornering on hardpack snow is perhaps half of dry, which is really something. I have to put my foot down to get the DSTC to cut in and slow one or two wheels, and breaking the back wheels out on slow corners takes 1/2 throttle or greater. DSTC brakes the wheel(s) on the side of the car that is sliding out to kick the car back into a straight line. I tried it several times tonight on empty streets and it’s quite predictable and effective. Turn the wheel and give her gas, the rear comes out, DSTC noticibly applies brake to the front and sometimes also rear wheels of the side that’s coming out, and she’s pointing straight again. I keep the 4C suspension setting on Comfort.
The only catch is that the chin spoiler acts as a… well… catch for snow. It will plow deep snow, and it will nick large chunky ice in the center of the lane. So deep backcountry road snow would be something you’d want to avoid in an R, even with studded tires or snow chains. I’d feel far more comfortable driving an XC in deep, unplowed snow.
Volvo Wagon Ground Clearance |
|||
| V70 | XC70 Cross Country | V70 R | |
| 1st Generation | 5.5 inches / 14 cm | 6.5 inches / 16.5 cm | ? |
| 2nd Generation | 5.3 inches / 13.5 cm | 8.2 inches / 20.8 cm | ? |
| 3rd Generation | 5.6 inches / 14.2 cm | 8.3 inches / 21.1 cm | n/a |
At press time, my 2004 V70 R is not at home, otherwise I could take the ground clearance measurement. I can’t find it online like I can the others. Please contact me if you know any of these.
Volvo Wagon Generations Explained |
|
| Generation | Model Years & Notes |
| 1st | 1993-2000, includes 850/S70/V70/V70-XC models |
| 2nd | 2001-2006, “P2” platform cars |
| 3rd | 2007 to Present |
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MVS Forum member Jimmy tells us explicitly how to make your AWD Volvo system go well over 100k miles. If you’re reading this with 150k+ miles on yours, and you haven’t “done anything” to extend the AWD system’s life, you’ve probably been kind to your driveshaft, for instance keeping all 4 same brand / same tread depth tires on her (for 1st gen AWD Volvos), or you’ve driven gently, or you’re lucky.
But if you hear chirps or a bumping noise on acceleration, it will progress to a vibration when the joint gets dry and balls wear and joint fails.
The driveshaft from angle gear to viscous coupling needs to have the CV joints lubed by 100K miles or there is a great likelihood you will end up replacing the whole shaft assembly or at least the front joint if available.
It is not a hard job but there are precautions.
Read this VRD article for some tips & tricks on maintaining the AWD system on your AWD V70/S70.
Read the rest: Volvo AWD Maintenance Procedure DIY
photo credit to holler1
The post How to Maintain Your AWD Volvo’s Driveshaft appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
It had a noise when accelerating when cold, it sounded like someone tapping a pan under the car. My friend found the problem to be the rear output CV shaft was lacking grease 1st from the factory and probably the grease was cooked or dried out due to its location just above the exhaust pipe.
Diagnostics at the Volvo dealer showed “TCM-002F LOCKUP FUNCTION. SLIPPING NOT ENGAGED.”
Parts: $4936
Labor: $750
Tears: 100,000
READ MORE: XC90 2004 T6 drive shaft or transfer case?
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Night #1: Pickup Full Axle from Advanced Auto (GSP) for $100.00
Installed in under 60 minutes.
Once on the highway I noticed a bit of a vibration between 50-60 when approaching WOT.
Night #2: Pickup Full Axle from CarQuest (FEB) for $120.00
Installed in 90 minutes since the C clip in the GSP was in there pretty good.
When installing I also verified that the FEB unit is marked GSP
Once on the highway I noticed the same vibration.
Night #3: Pickup Replacement Boots (REIN) for Volvo original Axle
Installed in under 90 minutes
Once on the highway, BLISS.
GSP and FEB Axles – Beware of vibration
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Well, I pulled the entire driveshaft, cleaned & reassembled the joint ‘on my bench’ (in the boot) & it all went back together silky smooth. I’m glad I took the decision to take it all out & do it properly, I’m now more confident & sure it’s okay. Also, if the cv joint does need replacing soon I’ll know how to go about it.
Pulled my inner CV joint apart, can’t get it back together!
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Conventional wisdom here at MVS Volvo Forums says use OEM/Volvo/”blue box” parts.
But a local indie mechanic here in Denver said he uses axles from CarQuest, and they come from a company called WorldPac. Huh? He said they’re just as good as OEM but 1/3 the price, and have just as long lives. Ok, so I did some investigative work. I called and spoke to a person “off the record” at WorldPac. Literally, he said “you didn’t hear it from me.”
They only sell to shops like CarQuest, note.
So what did he say? He said EMPI and FEQ are WorldPac brands, and they’re very good. “I’d but them on my car. They are not remans, they’re new.”
Here’s some EMPI MVS forum topics that leave me with an overall confident feeling.
I asked if axles bought at Carquest had any markings or distinguishing features to ensure they came from WorldPac (if in generic or CarQuest packaging), and he said no. SO, without doing scientific tests on axles, there’s my $.02. I put a $75 axle from CarQuest on my 850 in December 2011. Putting my money where my mouth is :-).
OEM Suspension Only? Maybe not… WorldPac
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Actually all these 3 BIG Names (F.A.G., SKF, and TIMKEN) have been around for many, many and many years. They make great bearings. But sometimes in order to carry a full complement of bearings, they use each other products.
The BMW Story:
For example, my 1998 BMW 528i FRONT Bearing is going bad, so after some research…..I found out that BMW Front Bearing (OEM is F.A.G.) is low-volume item (from a mfg standpoint).
Since F.A.G. already has a factory set up for making this bearing, TIMKEN simply buys the bearing but puts it inside a TIMKEN Box.
This is exactly the case, TIMKEN put the F.A.G. bearing in their box!
– I went to my local Autozone b/c they have a TIMKEN HA593427 (for my BMW) in stock for $145.
I opened the Box and sure enough, the Bearing has the F.A.G. name stamped right onto it!
The box even says “Made in Germany”. In other words, if you buy TIMKEN HA593427, you get F.A.G. bearing.
– So I went online and just ordered from Amazon for $111/each (shipping already included).
The Volvo Story:
– Back to the Volvo Bearing, as mentioned above, TIMKEN HA594181 is the part for 1994-1998 years.
I’d not be surprised if you see an F.A.G. bearing inside the TIMKEN box!
You can get this on Amazon for $95/each.
(eeuroparts.com sells F.A.G. Front Bearing for $130/each).
PS: As mentioned above, if the wheel bearing has the F.A.G., SKF, or TIMKEN stamped on it, it is a excellent product!
OEM wheel bearing – early failure
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I purchased new axles for my daughters ’95 850. I got them from FCP. As you can see the new axle at the top of the photo has some sort of “disk” in the center of the axle. I don’t know what it is. Every thing else looks the same except for the inner CV joint. The casing is shaped differently. I made the mistake of pulling the old axle out before getting the new one out of the box. I needed to get the car back on the road and all other things being the same I put the new axle in. I’ll be calling FCP tomorrow but can’t stand the anticipation.
The post Correct Axle for a 1995 850? appeared first on Matthews Volvo Site.
I had to replace both of my front axles and used the EMPI’s. So far so good. TIP: When inserting the shaft back into the transmission make sure the circlip opening is facing down. It has been my experience that the shaft slides and locks in easier when the circlip is in this position.
Torn CV boot. Axles or CV Boot Kit?
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This is the first time I have worked on anything other than a Japanese vehicle, so the repair wasn’t without a learning curve. Now I am more prepared for the work I still have remaining.
Finally I used some scratch remover and wax and finished cleaning up the outside. I can’t believe how nicely the car has cleaned up…the car had a lot of build-up on the paint from infrequent cleaning/waxing by the previous owner. Much of the little scratches are now gone.
850: Well Bought, Well Restored
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On the viscous system Volvo used: It was a good system and if the tires were rotated and no odd tires ended up in the mix it gave good service. Age on the VC has introduced some problems and baked grease in the front CV joint and middle support bearing failures are the service issues with age. And the splined connector sleeve wearing.
Gen 2 VC’s on the Volvo P2 models seemed to have been very low trouble and so far I’m not aware of those getting vibrations and other VC issues. I also do not see the VC on those sling out oil from midsection of the VC.
Why Were Gen 1 AWD Systems so Delicate?
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